The chances are you’ve also experienced it, too: you’re sitting on your back porch, enjoying your favorite meal or drink, and you notice a creepy brown insect. You squash it, and it releases one of the most foul smells you’ve ever come across!

Too bad! You’ve just killed a stink bug, and however hard you try to wash it, the stench won’t come off easily. The good news is that stink bug odor won’t harm you but will need to be removed nevertheless.

This article will discuss everything about stink bugs, including what they are, why they smell, and how to remove the odor from your hands, clothes, pets, etc.

Let’s get started!

What is a stink bug?

Stink bugs or shield bugs are pests believed to have originated from various east Asian countries, including Taiwan, China, South Korea, and Japan. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency classifies stink bugs as invasive species, alongside fruit flies and hornets.

These bugs resemble the boxelder bugs and were accidentally introduced to the U.S through a shipping transportation system. You can expect to find them mainly in the mid-Atlantic region.

Thousands of species of stink bugs exist globally, with over 200 in the United States and Canada. The Brown Marmorated Stink Bugs (BMSB) are the most common in the United States and were first discovered in the late 1990s in North America.

Unlike ants and cockroaches, you won’t find Brown Marmorated stink bugs in your food sources. Instead, you’ll find them on house plants, ornamental shrubs like sunflowers, and other host plants, trying to suck the plant juices and destroying their beauty.

Adult stink bugs prefer warm places or warm weather and are thus more active in the spring and summer seasons. As the seasons change to winter, there will be no bug problem as the bugs become inactive due to the cold winter months and don’t reproduce.

The porch light also attracts the bugs, so if you have powerful light in your home, the chances are that they’ll be hiding there.

Why do stink bugs smell?

The stink bugs smell for a reason; they release the unpleasant odor and smell as a defense mechanism. The foul odor is meant to discourage and ward off predators when they are disturbed or threatened.

The Brown Marmorated Stink Bugs release the bad-smelling fluid through its scent glands. Unlike bed bugs that stink when squashed, the stink bug sprays the smelly fluid to cover several inches when you disturb, stress, or threaten it.

What do the stink bugs smell like?

Knowing how the stink bugs smell will help you tell when the insects are in your house. Different individuals describe the smell of the stink bug differently.

Generally, what you detect from the odor will differ depending on the stink bug species and your olfactory senses. For instance, some people describe the fluid released by stink bugs as fermenting sour apple, while others state it’s like a skunk emission or burn tires.

How long does the stink bug smell last?

The stink bug odor will last for several hours when you aggressively interact or squash them. However, the smell will last for a shorter time if you remove it soon enough.

Is the stink bug smell dangerous on skin and plants?

The stink bug odor is not dangerous to the skin but can irritate a selected few individuals who are allergic to the fluid. However, the fluid has an unpleasant smell that most people can’t handle or perceive.

The stink bugs are not harmful to your skin, hands, house, pets, or clothes. The bugs don’t bite, and their secretion isn’t toxic but will be sticky to your pets or clothes.

However, the pests are dangerous to indoor plants and can cause plant structural damage without proper stink bug control measures. The bug attacks garden produce and will lead to total losses of tomato plantations.

The bugs may also cause agricultural damage to beans, green peppers, and fruits like peaches and berries. Generally, the destruction of crops and the odor produced are the most severe stink bugs’ effects you should worry about.

How do I remove the stink bug smell?

Although the stink bugs won’t harm you, your pets, or your clothes, their smell can be unbearable. The good news is you have numerous ways to get rid of the stink bug smell.

Below are ways you can use to remove the unpleasant odor:

Method #1: Scrub the affected surface

If you mistakenly squash the stink bug with your hand, the best way to get rid of the foul smell is to scrub the affected area repeatedly. Scrub the surface you squashed the bug against to remove the unpleasant odor if it’s in the house.

You may scrub the affected surfaces as directed below:

1. Scrub using toothpaste and warm water: Apply little toothpaste to the affected spot and rub it using your fingers. Then, wash and rinse off your hands with warm water.
2. Use lemon juice or other juices: Pour the juice into a bowl and use it to scrub the affected area. Then, rinse your skin using warm water, and the smell will be gone.

Method #2: Ventilate the room

Ventilation is one of the simplest yet effective ways of removing the unpleasant smell from your house. Let fresh air replace the stale, unpleasant smell in your home by opening as many windows and doors as possible.

You may also create a mixture of baking soda, mild dish soap, and hydrogen peroxide to deodorize your furnishings.

Method #3: Use odor eliminators

If the stink bug’s foul smell is stuck inside your home, the best way to remove it is to overpower it. And creating your own strong odor eliminator is the best bet you have.

To do this:

• Soak a cotton ball in peppermint and lemon extract
• Put the damp cotton ball into a glass jar with a lid and holes drilled at the top

You may also use several fresh, unused coffee grounds. Put them in clean pantyhose and hang them in the room – they’ll also work perfectly to kick out the foul smell.

Method 4: Prevent the stink bugs from getting to your house

The easiest and most effective method to keep the stink bug smell from your house is to stop them from entering your house. The national pest management association offers simple yet effective techniques that an average homeowner can use to ward off these agricultural pests. They include:

Examine the entry points:

A good place to start preventing bugs from getting into your house is checking all the possible entry points and sealing them. Give special attention to door and window frames, exterior wood sidings, electrical outlets, light fixtures, and fix any broken window pane.

Seal up any crawl spaces using caulk (a silicone-based formula), or call in a professional to fix the larger entry points.

Use chemicals:

If you still notice the stink bugs in your home even after sealing the possible entry points, it may be time to use chemicals. Most chemical sprays have deltamethrin, a pesticide product that kills stink bugs.

Use a spray bottle to apply the bug spray around the windows, door frames, and other possible points of entry. However, be careful handling chemicals, as most of them can be harmful.

Pest control professionals also recommend rubbing your window sills and window screens with pungent dryer sheets and draping a damp paper towel over a lawn chair to attract bugs and dispose of them in soapy water.

Assess your exterior lighting:

As mentioned above, stinks bugs are attracted to light. To keep the insects away, switch out the exterior light bulbs for sodium-vapor lights or yellow bulbs, which are less attractive to these household pests.

You may also use a light trap to catch the home stink bugs. Put a powerful light in your backyard, and the pests will come out, then pick them up using a bagless vacuum.

Try home remedies

You may also use natural elements in your home to keep off or trap the stink bugs. For instance, a simple combination of dish soap, hot water, and white vinegar or hydrogen peroxide helps ward off and trap stink bugs.

Fill a spray bottle with 1 cup of white vinegar or 1 quart of 3-percent hydrogen peroxide, 2 cups of hot water, and ½ cup of dish soap, and spray the bugs.

Using Essential oils like mint is a natural method to keep stink bugs away. Mint produces a strong aroma that stink bugs hate, thus, acting as a repellent.

Using vacuum cleaner:

You may also get rid of the stink bugs from your home using a vacuum cleaner. Here is how you do it:

1. If you see a shield bug in your house, do not touch or squash it, as it will produce an unpleasant smell.
2. Grab them gently using a plastic bag and take them outside to kill them. Alternatively, you can also flush the dead stink bugs in the toilet.
3. Vacuum them using a vacuum cleaner (if you have one). Once you’ve sucked up the bugs, remove the vacuum bag and put it in the outdoor trash.

This is an easy technique to dispose of the bugs from your home.

Enlist the help of an expert:

If the stink bug infestation doesn’t end in your home, it might be time to contact reliable and knowledgeable pest control experts. These individuals have developed the most effective and lasting stink bug removal solutions for residents.

How do I remove the stink bug smell on clothes and pets?

Yes, the stink bug’s foul odor can get into your clothes and pets! The tiny insects spray their defensive bad-smelling fluid, and if it’s you or your pet they’re defending themselves from, you’ll get hit.

The best thing is that there different ways to remove the smell from your clothes or pets. For instance, you may wash your clothes or pets, and the unpleasant odor will come off easily.

If the unpleasant fluid gets to your furniture or other fabric items, you may use a vacuum cleaner to remove the stink.

The bottom line

Although the stink bug smell can cause severe nuisance or be offensive, it’s not dangerous. Of course, getting the smell does mean you have stink bugs in your home, and that’s a problem you’ll need to handle.

This post provides several methods to eliminate the stink bug smell from your home, hands, clothes, and pets. It also equips the reader with some of the best techniques to prevent the stink bug pest infestation.

If you’ve never grown a spider plant in your home, you’re missing out. These fairly common houseplants have “spiderettes” that hang down off the main plant and give off the appearance of a bunch of little spiders.

The long, thin foliage of the spider plant is either solid green or streaked with white. The plant is simple to grow and take care of, which is why it is so popular for novice plant-owners.

The spiderettes, or offshoots, of the spider plant, flower in the summer and, if the flower is not pollinated, babies grow out of the little white flowers. Those that are pollinated produce seeds instead of sprouts.

Sprouts grow rapidly and can easily be propagated when their roots reach a certain size. Propagating a spider plant means collecting cuttings of sprouts from the spiderettes in order to grow more plants.

While it is quite easy to propagate spider plants, it’s still important to learn how and when to do it in order to keep the plant healthy and ensure new growth.

Keep in mind that the first and most important step of spider plant propagation is just the basic care of your plant. Without a healthy, strong, and well-grown spider plant, you won’t be able to propagate and grow more.

Here’s what you need to know about propagating a spider plant and transforming those little “spider babies” into their own plants:

When Should a Spider Plant be Propagated?

If you’ve been taking good care of your spider plant and the spiderettes are beginning to flower and grow those little sprouts, you’re getting close to propagation and growing new plants.

Pay attention to those new little shoots. As soon as they start growing their own roots, and their roots have reached a size that is sustainable, they’re ready to be propagated.

If you choose to propagate your spider plant, make sure the roots of the offshoots are strong. The best time of year for propagation is the spring and summer, which is the active growing season for spider plants, however, it can be done any time of the year.

What Should I Do to Propagate a Spider Plant?

Once you have determined that the roots of the baby plants have grown to a sustainable size, it’s time to propagate. Cut the sprouts off from the parent plant carefully, so as not to damage the plant.

You can cut the spider plant from the mother anywhere on the sprout. However, you might want to attempt to cut them close to the spiderettes to avoid an excess, ugly stem from remaining.

If you do leave a stem, feel free to prune it back to the spiderette or main plant. Once you’ve cut the sprout off, nothing new will grow.

Oftentimes, people are concerned that their sprouts are not ready due to their smaller size. It is a misconception that the sprout itself needs to be large and strong before it can be propagated.

The most important part of growing a spider plant is the roots. With healthy and strong roots, you should be able to grow a plant with a long, happy life.

Instead of focusing on the sprout, keep your eye on the roots. No matter what size your sprouts are, if the roots are beginning to grow to a sustainable size, the sprout is ready for propagation.

You can either plant the sprout in soil or in a clear jar of water. People use the clear jar of water if they want to be able to see the roots of the plant growing.

Rooting Spider Plant Babies in Water

This is the easiest and fastest way to propagate your spider plants and strengthen their roots. However, if you use this method, be aware that your spider plant babies will be a bit weaker and will need to be very carefully transplanted into soil eventually.

Before you submerge the roots in water, make sure to remove any leaves that are growing under the roots or at the base of the sprout. If there is any foliage submerged under water, it will rot and could end up damaging the entire plant.

Fill the clear jar or vase with only enough water to cover the roots of the spider plant baby. If there is too much water, the sprout will be submerged too much, and will rot.

If you decide to use a jar of water to grow the roots, you’ll eventually need to transfer the plant to soil. When the roots have grown to about two inches, it’s time to move it into the soil to give it a more permanent growing area.

The spider babies will need a great deal of recovery time after being transferred into soil. Make sure and give them extra care, time, and attention as their roots begin to grow and take hold.

Rooting Spider Plant Babies in Soil

Plants that are rooted in soil are stronger and have a smaller risk of dying from transplant shock than those initially rooted in water. If you decide to plant your spider plant babies directly in soil after removing it from the main plant, you can either use pots or a propagation chamber.

Propagation chambers are helpful for quick, strong root growth because they keep the humidity level high, causing faster rooting. You can purchase a propagation chamber or make your own.

If you make your own chamber, add heat on the bottom and use a light soil mix, such as pumice, peat moss, or vermiculite. Regular soil will be too heavy for the babies, stifling them and making it harder to grow.

Pots can also be used for rooting spider plant babies in soil. The pots that you use for your sprouts should be small.

Smaller sprouts can share a small pot, while larger sprouts will need their own small pot for growth. The small pot is key because spider plants love to be in confined spaces, which stimulates their growth.

These sprouts grow quickly and their roots will strengthen, taking up the pot and winding their roots all over the place. This is important for the overall health of the plant, which is why using small pots is essential.

After Spider Plant Propagation

As the roots continue to grow, they continue to take up the space in the jar, pot, or propagation chamber. Eventually, it will be time for transplantation.

When transplanting spider plant sprouts, you can use a general soil. At this point, the roots should be strong enough to withstand the heaviness.

Make sure and give the newly planted sprouts water as they get accommodated with their new home. Don’t overwater them, but keep the soil evenly moist as they get established in their pot.

Another option for watering is to lightly mist the pots every day. This helps to keep the soil moist and prevents overwatering.

Transplantation can be traumatic for your growing spider plants, so make sure you’re checking on them regularly.

If your plant was transplanted from water, you need to give it extra care and attention, as it will be weaker than those that were in soil. In fact, these cuttings may actually droop when first transplanted, however, they should perk back up after just a few days.

When you finally start to see new growth on your plant, you can breathe easy. You no longer have a baby!

This is the sign that your spider plant is strong and established. You can begin to provide regular spider plant care and watch it flourish!

Looking for another plant? Check out How to Plant Easter Lillies.

We’ve all been there: you step into the shower, get the water running, and notice water backing up in your shower drain! If such a thing happens to you, you have a clogged plumbing vent, and you’ll need to deal with it.

Hair is the top culprit for clogged drains. Unfortunately, no matter how hard you try to avoid it, hair will inevitably get into your shower drain.

The good news is that you can clean the shower drain of hair. This post will take you through the six easy ways to clear a hair-clogged drain.

Let’s get started!

How do I clean the shower drain of hair?

Nobody likes to unclog hair from the drain – it’s disgusting. Some individuals gag at the sight of strands of hair trapped between their fingers as they lift it from the drain.

If you’re among the individuals that hate unclogging shower drain of hair, maybe these methods can help you:

Use boiling water

This is one of the easiest and most effective ways to remove hair from the drains. It’s simple – you boil a pot of hot water and pour it down the drain.

You may use a pouring cup or a funnel to make the process easier. Pour the hot water into the drain steadily, pause for a few seconds, repeat the process, and test your shower.

Boiling water will loosen up the grease and soap holding the hair in place, allowing it to flush away properly.

Use baking soda and vinegar

Another effective and safe method to remove hair from the bathroom drains is to use baking soda, white vinegar, and boiling water. This method doesn’t eat away your plumbing pipes, unlike harsh chemicals like Liquid Plumr and Drano max gel.

Even better, baking soda has disinfectant properties and will remove fungi, bacteria, and unpleasant odor in your bathroom or bathtub drain. So, how do you clean a clogged drain using baking soda and white vinegar?

Here is a step-by-step guide to clean your shower drain using baking soda:

1. Pour one cup of baking soda into the clogged shower drain. Then, pour one cup of white vinegar down there.
2. Baking soda and vinegar will combine and begin to fizz. Wait several minutes after the fizzing stops and pour two quarts of boiling water into the drain.
3. Check if the water is moving through the drains. If not, repeat the same process to unclog your bathroom drain.

For the best results, you should still use a cup plunger to clean any hair that’s left behind.

Use your hands

Yes, using your hands can be disgusting, but it’s one of the most effective methods to clean your hair clogged drain. All you need is to remove the drain’s cover and pull the hair out of the inside of the drain.

You can wear thin rubber gloves or go in bare if you’re brave. You may also use a flashlight to clearly spot the strands of hair trapped inside the drain.

Again, using your hands is a dirty job, but it’s one of the fastest and most effective methods to clean out stubborn clogs.

Use a plunger

If your drain is large, a cup plunger might be the perfect tool to clear the hair clumps from the drain. This method is especially effective for less severe clogs.

Allow a little bit of water to run in your shower, leaving the plunger submerged. You can add small amounts of petroleum jelly around the plunger’s edge to improve with suction.

Once the plunger gets stuck to the drain, begin plunging. Do it vigorously until the hair clog clears away.

Use tweezers

The stringy nature of the human hair can make it challenging to plunge it out. So, if you tried clearing shower drain clogs and the hair seems not to come off, try pulling it out using a pair of tweezers.

First, remove the drain cover using a screwdriver or manually, depending on your drain’s nature. Then, use your needle-nose pliers to pull out the accumulation of hair from the drain.

You may use a flashlight to get a better view of the inside of the drain. Also, you may want to wear rubber gloves, as pulling out hair can get pretty nasty.

Once you’re done, pour hot water in the drain to flush any remaining strands of hair out.

Use a hook

Closely related to the hand method, the hook method is yet another effective way to clean clumps of hair trapped in your drain. As the name suggests, this method involves using a hook like a wire coat hanger to fish out the hair.

Put the wire hook into the drain, try to hook the hair, and pull it out. Do this slowly to avoid the hair breaking and falling back into the drain.

Also, use the thinnest hooks for the best results. Certain drain-cleaning chemicals come with a hook-like tool for this purpose.

Use the snaking device

If the above methods don’t seem to work to remove hair clogs, a plumber’s snake may be your only go-to device. But how exactly does the plumbing snake work?

Here is a step-by-step guide to clean hair-clogged drains using a snaking tool:

Remove the drain cover

Using a screwdriver, remove the shower drain stopper to access the actual drain pipe. Insert the screwdriver’s tip into the screw heads and twist to the left to loosen them up.

If you have a shower and a bathtub, you may remove the drain cover by pressing it down and twisting it to the left.

Use tweezers or pliers to remove visible strands of hair

If there are visible clumps of hair on the drainpipe, use tweezers or needle-nose pliers to dig them out. Empty them into a plastic bag for easy cleanup.

Use the snaking tool to clean the clogged drain

Insert the plastic drain snake into the drainpipe until its handle is at the top of the drain’s opening. Be careful handling the snaking tool, as some have small, sharp thorns that can harm you.

Then, twist the snaking tool on either side to trap hair clumps. You can buy the plumber’s snake online or at your local hardware store.

Remove the snaking tool slowly

Hold the snaking tool by its handle and slowly pull it out of the drain. To grasp as much hair as possible, you may want to twist and wiggle it around as you pull it out.

If it gets stuck, wiggle it around until it comes out easily. Discard the tool after use.

Rinse the drain and reinstall the drain cover

Rinse the drain using hot water for about 10 seconds to remove the remaining strands of hair. If globs of hair rise to the surface, pull them out using your hands and discard them in plastic bags.

Using a screwdriver, reinstall the drain cover, twisting each screw to the right. If your drain has a screwless drain guard, insert it into the drain opening, push it down, and twist to the right.

Use chemicals

Although it’s always advisable to use natural methods to unclog a drain, some are too stubborn for the natural means.

If you have tried all other methods with no success, it’s time to try out the commercial drain cleaners. Visit a store and look for chemicals that have been explicitly made to unclog drains.

Apply the chemical to your clogged drains as needed, following the stated instructions. Always wear your PPEs, including goggles, rubber gloves, and old clothes.

Important: Do not mix chemicals, as that could create deadly substances.

Call a professional

At times, the clog can’t be handled using regular methods. In such an instance, you may want to enlist the help of a professional plumber.

A plumber has the expertise, knowledge, and tools needed to remove hair clogs from your drains. They can also give you some tips to prevent a clog in the future.

Prevention tips

Prevention is the best cure, so you should prevent the clog from happening in the first place. The first step to preventing hair-clogged drains is to be aware of the amount of hair you shed and then works towards reducing it.

Here are a few preventive measures to keep your drain clear of hair clogs:

1. Buy a shower drain hair catcher. Most hair catchers don’t have the best looks, but they work the best in trapping long hair.
2. Run a water tap as you shave to allow the hair to flush as you go. The more water you run, the better.
3. Brush your hair before showering
4. Maintain a clean drain screen if you have one.

These measures will help prevent hair clogs in your shower drains.

Final thoughts

I know I’m not the only one struggling with the annoying battle between long hair and a clogged shower drain. This article looks to end your struggle by offering the nine best ways to clean the shower drain of hair.

Good luck!

It’s that time of year again – the Easter holiday! And as Christians gather to celebrate the resurrection of Jesus Christ, flower lovers should take this time to plant and care for their Easter lilies.

Everyone loves the Easter lilies. They fill your home with fragrant aromas and bright blooms.

The flower symbolizes new life and purity, echoing a religious holiday and the spring season. The attractive plants are super-easy to grow, but you’ll need to master several tricks to get these gorgeous blooms.

This post will take you through super easy methods to plant and take care of the Easter lilies during this growing season.

Feel free to jump ahead!

What’s an Easter Lily?

Before we dive into how to plant Easter lilies, let’s first look at what the plant is and its origin. Lilium longiflorum, or simply Easter lily, is a white trumpet-shaped perennial bulb flower that’s believed to have originated in the Ryukyu Islands in Japan.

The plant is believed to have arrived in Western countries in the 1800s. In the United States, the plant’s supply mainly came from Bermuda, earning its other name – the Bermuda Lily.

The plant’s pure white blooms symbolize purity and new growth, connecting it to spring and the Easter holiday. The white flowers grow up to 7 inches but may take around three years to reach maturity.

Naturally, the Easter lily blooms in June and July. However, you should plant your potted plant earlier if you want it to bloom at Easter time.

How do I plant an Easter lily?

Now comes the core part of this post: how to plant an Easter lily. It’s easy – all you need is a good guide and a few tips, as provided below.

Planting your Easter lily indoors

Taking proper care of Easter lilies when you have them indoors is the key to a strong, vigorous plant that will be easier to transition to the garden. Place your Easter lily near a bright window, just out of reach of the direct rays of the full sun.

Easter lily thrives best in temperatures ranging from 18 to 24 degrees C (65-75 degrees F.).

Water your potted plant from time to time to maintain lightly moist soil, and use liquid fertilizer on the houseplant every two weeks. Clip out the flower stem near the base as their blossom fades.

Once the Easter lily’s blossom has fallen, it’s time to transplant it outdoors. Let’s see how you go about that below.

Planting your Easter lily outside

After your Easter lily’s blooms have fallen and there is no more danger of frost, you can transplant it from the pot into a suitable outdoor spot (don’t place it in a sunny location). The plants do well in all types of soil except heavy clay.

Easter lily thrives best in indirect light and under cool, well-drained soil (good drainage is crucial for Easter lilies). So, choose a location that receives ample morning sun and afternoon shade.

Don’t forget that the Easter lilies can grow 1m (3 feet) tall or a little more, so place them in an area they’ll get ample space to grow.

Dig the planting hole wide enough to allow the roots to spread and deep enough that you can cover the bulb with a soil level of 8cm (3inches). Place the plant in the hole and add soil to cover the roots.

Using your hands, squeeze out air pockets in the soil surface and then water deeply and slowly. Plant the next Easter lily about 31 to 46 cm (12-18 inches) away from the current one.

Some flower connoisseurs use a layer of mulch to insulate the plant year-round. Make the mulch thicker during cold winter months but thin it out in late January or February when new shoots are expected to sprout

Here are a few tips to help you in transplanting your Easter lily:

Inspect the roots

If your Easter lily roots appear in a tangled mass, it’s a good idea to loosen them before planting. This will allow your plant’s root space to grow.

Spread the bulbs out

Plant the flower bulbs approximately 12 to 18 inches apart and about 3 inches deep. This gives the plant enough space to grow and absorb nutrients.

Use mulch to keep the soil cool

Use organic mulch, like shredded bark or living mulch, to insulate the surface of the soil around your lily and keep it cool. Experts recommend a 3-inch layer of mulch for the best results.

The suitable inches of mulch are excellent for weed control and keeping your plant cool.

Look for anthers

The bright yellow anthers in Easter lilies provide a lovely contrast to the white trumpet’s petals. However, removing them from your Easter lily’s blooms prolong the flower’s lifespan.

Propagate

Propagation is the process of creating new plants. You can propagate your Easter lilies in the late summer or fall after it blooms.

You can use small bulblets or scales that have been separated to create new Easter lilies. Like seeds, the bulblets and scales will take about two to three years to reach maturity.

Here is a step-by-step guide to help you propagate your Easter lily plant:

• Gather a hand trowel, compost, and a spade shovel
• Dig up your Easter lilies in early fall to expose the bulblets and divide them in thirds or half. You may also buy bulbs at local flower shops.
• Dig holes at least 6 inches apart in your garden bed to plant the bulbs. Place the bulblets stem side up into each hole
• Mix the removed soil with compost and backfill the holes that have your bulbs
• In early spring, gently water your underground bulbs and allow them to sprout
• Your lilies may take two to three years to mature and bloom.

After planting your Easter lily, it doesn’t end there! You should take care of the plant to achieve the best results.

Caring for the Easter lily

Planting Easter lilies is one thing and taking care of them is another. If you’ve just bought an Easter lily to brighten up your home during the spring season, you’ll need a few tips to care for your plant:

Here are a few recommendations for caring for an Easter lily:

Pick the best plant

When you buy a potted Easter lily, it’s a good idea to look for a plant almost twice as tall as the pot and has plenty of green leaves. Avoid the lilies with crinkled or wilted leaves or the ones with dark spots.

Pick the potted Easter lilies with one or two open flowers and many unopened buds – they are the best. A mature lily plant has a stem with 12 to 15 blooms.

Inspect your plant for insects and diseases

Before buying your Easter lily plant, inspect it for webbing, insects, or holes in leaves. You don’t wish to bring insects and diseased plants to your dining room table.

Bring your Easter plant home

Before planting your Easter lily outside, keep it in cool temperatures and near a bright light. Your plant will thrive in daytime temperatures ranging from 60 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit and 55 to 60 degrees F at night.

Use fertilizer when your Easter lily is not in bloom

Add bulb fertilizer into the soil during the fall season, but be careful not to disrupt the roots. Use regular fertilizer when new growth appears in the early spring growing season, but stop fertilizing when they bloom.

Water your Easter lily plants

Easter lilies do best in evenly moist soil, so water them whenever the top inch of the soil dries out. Do not allow the soil to dry out completely, but also don’t let the plants sit in water as this can make the Easter lily bulbs rot.

You should water in the morning, leaving the foliage time to dry in the full sun. Otherwise, your plant may have problems with mildew.

Deadhead the Easter lily bulbs

Cut off the flowering portion of your Easter lily’s stalk

Check for pests

Although pests are not common on the Easter lily, pests may infest the plant in some areas. For instance, the red lily leaf beetle is common among Easter lilies in New England, U.S.

The beetles also attack other plants belonging to the genus Lilium, including Fangio L.A. hybrids and Stargazer lilies. The pest can defoliate your plant to the point of killing it.

You can spray neem oil or other chemicals recommended by a professional to control the infestation. You can also handpick the beetles if you have the time.

Words of caution: use chemicals as recommended by a professional. Also, ensure you follow all the instructions that come with pest control chemicals.

Keep the Easter lilies indoor

Easter lilies can survive the winter months in pots placed outdoors in USDA hardiness zones 7 and above. However, if you live in regions experiencing harsh winters, move the plants indoors for winter protection.

The bottom line

The Easter season is finally here, and you may find yourself a recipient of the Easter lily. These eye-pleasing plants have the perfect fragrant flowers and can get you in the spirit.

Who wouldn’t want to enjoy the beauty and fragrant aromas of the Easter lily all year long? Not you, right?

This post guides you on planting your Easter lily so that it can serve you for as long as you want. Good luck as you purpose to use it to plant and replant Easter lilies this Easter holiday season and beyond.

Are you obsessed with candles? Do you enjoy tea light on special occasions? Approximately $3.14 billion in annual sales of candle products says you’re not the only one.

Whether you’re planning to make homemade candles to earn a living or just for fun, you can make your own candles right at home. All you need is soy wax, bowls, saucepans, essential oil blends, candle molds, and more, importantly, a candlewick.

And although you can buy candle wicks, making your own candle wick gives you the ability to choose the right size that fits your specialty candles. But how exactly do you make your candle wicks at home?

This post discusses a candle wick and outlines some best ways to make homemade candle wicks.

Let’s get started!

What are candle wicks?

A candle wick is a coated cotton that holds the flame of a candle or an oil lamp. It follows the capillary actions to work, drawing the liquefied wax up into the flame to burn.

Although the wicks are mostly made using cotton strings, you also can use old t-shirt scraps, reusable fabrics, or wooden sticks. Whatever type of candle wicks you use, ensure you find the right wick size for your candle.

A properly wicked candle burns cleaner and provides reliable burn times and fragrance throws. It works perfectly to enhance the mood in the room.

Choosing candle wicks

You can make a candle wick using a cotton twine or a small piece of wood. If you choose to make your wick from the cotton twine, you may use it alone or soak it in different materials, including salt, borax solution (most recommended), or olive oil.

As mentioned above, the size of the candle wick, type of wax, among other factors, also affects your final candle product.

Here are the things to look for when choosing your candle wick:

• Minimal or no blooming of carbon deposits
• Your flame size
• Minimal or no dripping
• Container temperature

Candle wicks treated in borax solution are the most common wicks, but you can use other materials for your wick.

How do I make candle wicks?

Craft projects such as making homemade candles are therapeutic – they can be vital in reducing tension and relieving stress. Making candle wicks and handling essential oils, perfumes, and colors is a surefire anxiety-reliever.

Here is one of the best DIY wicks guides for making the different types of candle wicks at home:

Making Borax candle wicks

As the name suggests, Borax candle wicks are made using the borax solution. Also known as sodium tetraborate or sodium borate, Borax is a powdery white substance used as a common household item for cleaning or as a booster for laundry detergent.

To make your own wicks using this powder, here are the steps to follow:

Heat water

The first step is to heat about 1 cup (250 ml) of water using a tea kettle or a small saucepan. Let the water reach a simmer, but not a thoroughly boil

Make the Borax solution

The next step is to pour the water into a small glass bowl and add three tablespoonful (45 ml) of Borax and one tablespoonful of salt. Stir to dissolve and form the Borax solution.

Important:

• The Borax solution allows you to make long-lasting candles that burn brighter
• The Borax solution also reduces the amount of ash and smoke produced by the candle
• Borax should be kept away from pets and children. The product is toxic and may cause complications when inhaled or ingested.

Also, store the Borax powder as indicated in the manual that comes with it.

Soak the cotton twine

Submerge the cotton twine in the Borax solution and leave it for about 24 hours.

Important:

• Ensure that the cotton twine used is longer than the height of the container. If you’re unsure how tall the candle will be, soak up to 1 foot of cotton twine and trim its size later.
• Although the butcher’s cotton twine is recommended for candle wicks, any thick cotton cord should work just fine. You may use a torn piece of cotton cloth embroidery cotton, or a shoelace
• Leaving the twine soaked for a long time is key for the best results. You may remove the string from the Borax solution as soon as after 30 minutes, but the results will not be as perfect.

After 24 hours, your cotton twine will be ready for drying and use.

Dry the cotton twine

Using tweezers, remove the cotton twine from the Borax solution. Hang it and leave it to dry for two to three days.

Note: You can place an aluminum foil beneath the drying twine to trap the excess Borax solution. Make sure that the cotton twine is fully dry before you continue.

Melt the wax

Melt about 60 ml to 125 ml of beeswax candles

using a double boiler setup. You can use a small saucepan or a clean metal in the place of the double boiler.

Heat some water in the saucepan, letting it simmer without boiling. Then, place the metal can inside the hot water and leave it for about a minute to heat before adding the wax.

Important: Melted wax can lead to severe candle burns, so handle it with care throughout the process.

Add the treated cotton string

Dip the dry Borax treated cotton twine in the melted wax—coat as much of the string with the wax as possible.

Note: You can use the Borax-treated string without adding wax. However, the wax makes it easier stiffer and allows the flame to catch easily on the wick’s end.

Dry the twine

Hang the cotton string and leave it for several minutes to dry. You may place an aluminum foil below the twin to catch excess drippings.

To make stiffer and thicker wicks, you can repeat the process– dipping it in melted wax and drying it.

Inset it in a candle

Your wick should be now ready to be inserted into a candle. Enjoy the resulting flame and fragrance.

Crafting wooden wicks

You may also use balsa wood sticks to make candle wood wicks. You need a wooden stick, a pair of scissors, a container, and olive oil, and you’re ready to go.

Here is the step-by-step guide to making balsa wooden candle wicks:

Trim down the balsa wood sticks

Using a pair of scissors, trim down the length of the balsa wood so that it’s at least 2.5 cm (1 inch) taller than the container you plan to make your own candles with. You can find the thin (1.25 cm to 3.75 cm wide) balsa wood strip in any craft store nearby.

Place the balsa wood in olive oil

Soak the trimmed balsa wood into a shallow bowl and add enough olive oil to cover the wood. Although the wooden strip is flammable, adding olive oil allows it to burn evenly.

Leave the wooden strip soaked in the oil for about 20 minutes. You may decide to wait up to one hour for the best results.

Note: you may use vegetable oil or oil lamp in the place of olive oil.

Remove the excess oil

Remove the wooden strip from the oil and wipe the excess oil using a paper towel. Place the wooden strip on a plate covered with paper towels and leave it for several minutes to dry.

The wood wick should feel damp and slightly oily when ready. But make sure that the strip doesn’t leave an oily residue on your hands.

Use your wood wick as needed

At this point, the treated wooden wick should be ready for use. These wicks are preferred by people that love the scent of burning wood.

Making movable candle wicks

You may also make a movable candle wick by first letting the wax melt.

Melt about 60 to 125 ml of a candle or paraffin wax using a double boiler. If you don’t have a double boiler, you may use a saucepan with water and add a metal bowl.

Then, trim the pipe cleaner and dip it into the melted wax. Repeat the process several times for better results.

At this stage, your candle should be ready for use.

Other methods for making candlewick:

You may also make your candlewick through the following methods:

a. Cotton Ball Method

This is yet another simple method of making candlewick. You’ll need a cotton ball and some twine or string to get started.

Then, wrap the string around the center of the cotton ball until it’s fully covered. Then use the cotton wicks as they are, or trim them down.

b. The wire method

This is yet another popular method of making your own candle wicks. It requires more precision and patience than the cotton ball method, resulting in a much neater and cleaner wick.

You’ll need nose pliers and a thin gauge wire to make this candlewick. Wrap the wire around the wick’s base, then use the needle-nose pliers to twist the two wire’s ends.

Insert the wick into the wax, and let there be light!

The bottom line

Homemade candles are a great way to light up a home. They also play a quintessential role in uplifting individuals’ moods. But without a candle wick, the candles are useless. This post shows you how to make your homemade candle wicks. Good luck as you purpose to use it.